Troubleshooting for Chicks

Safe and Sound

Tips & Tricks for Chicks

The basics are easy to remember, for healthy chicks you need 4 things: Water, Heat, Food, and Space.

Chicks with health problems need just a little more care and if possible, a private space to recover. They can quickly recover if spotted early and treated.

When they first arrive they will be under stress, check their bottoms for dirty bums and dip their beaks in water to ensure they are drinking. And then let them be for 24 hours to rest and recover. And if you feed them 2 to 3 hours after their first drink, they will digest their first meal better.

Normally chicks will not eat, drink or move around until they have warmed up, which is why it is so important to let them rest. This prevents shock and potential sickness.

  • Use a standard chick starter/grower. Be very careful about buying medicated food, your chicks may already be medicated when you pick them.
  • Overmedicating creates many unnecessary problems and even death.
  • 
Feeding troughs should be low enough for them to reach easily and the best place is just outside the heated area in their pen.

5 most common things to look for:

Dehydration

If chicks looked wilted or listless when they first arrive, it is likely dehydration. The last thing a chick does in the egg is to absorb the yolk through its belly button. This is nature’s way of providing all that they will need for 2 -3 days. The reason is the last egg in the batch may take that long to hatch and the first chick to hatch must survive under Mom until she heads out for food and water. This makes transporting day-old chicks possible if kept warm and quiet. But they can still be dehydrated upon arrival. Warm water is usually all that is needed. But if not, then a simple vitamin /electrolyte solution is best or even Gatorade can work in a pinch. Just remember it needs to be warm, not cold.

Scissor Beak

Or crossed beak. This is where the top and bottom beaks fail to align properly. Unfortunately, this is harder to fix but does not need to be and she can lead a healthy normal life if given help in her early days. Best to isolate her, so she is not competing for food. Scissor beak prevents the chick from being able to pick up food, she must use her lower beak to scoop food closer to her tongue. Once there she can manage very well. Wet food makes this much easier for her. Grind up her food and soak it in water until it is the consistency of oatmeal. Et Voila! She will grow just fine adapting to this small condition. And when she is strong enough, try putting her back in with other chicks but watch to make sure she is eating.

Spraddle Leg

Also known as Splay Leg. It looks as if the chick is not strong enough to stand on its own. You may have contributed to it if you used newspaper or their floor is slippery. But there are also causes such as rapid swings in temperature, a difficult hatch, overcrowding, vitamin deficiency, or a weak or injured leg or foot. Chicks that arrive with this condition will be obvious and should be treated immediately. The sooner you do it, the quicker the legs heal and strengthen. If not, it is unlikely they will survive.

VetRap is best as it clings to itself, so no tape is needed. Gently wrap around each leg separately, just below the knee, but above the ankle. Be sure that it is not too tight to restrict blood flow. Then with a piece that is about 6 inches long, bind the legs together, just wider than a normal stance. This will allow the chick to move as her legs strengthen. Change daily and look for indentations in the leg, meaning it is too tight. And as the chick strengths, give her more space between her legs until it is no longer needed. The first day will be the most difficult for her. Help her stand. Support her with her body until she finds her balance. Do this 6 – 8 times the first day. Supervise her around water as she can easily drown. Standing is very tricky at first, but each day her strength builds and soon she will be able to walk unassisted. Placing her on a shelving liner provides an easy grip for her during this period.

Rear End "Pasting-Up"

All chicks should be checked for pasty butt upon arrival, just before you dip their beak into warm water. Sometimes the stress of shipping causes the manure to stick to the back of the bird. It is important to remove this until it clears, usually in a day or two. Carefully soak the area with warm water, and GENTLY wash off with a wet cloth. It will disappear in a day or two, as the bird starts to grow. If not treated, very likely they will die. Be extra careful though. Pasting up occurs in the vent area of the rear end of the chick.
There is also the Belly Button (below the vent towards the belly) and there will be a scab over it, do NOT remove it. The scab is naturally occurring and will dry up and drop off on its own. Removing it can lead to infection and even cause disembowelment.

If several chicks develop pasty butts while in your care, the brooder may be too hot. Adjust the temperature.

If that does not clear it up, one last thing that may cause pasty butt is the feed itself. If several chicks develop pasty butts, mix in some scrambled eggs into their food, if that works, change the feed.

Coccidiosis

This is the most common cause of death in chicks. Symptoms include diarrhea or blood/mucus in droppings, lethargy, loss of appetite, and loss of growth. Conditions can develop quickly and lead to death if untreated.
It is caused by parasites that love warm and wet conditions. So keeping the brooding space dry and clean is very important. Water can be elevated to help prevent pooing in it, as can changing it frequently. Once in your brooder, it can spread quickly. Brooders need to be as dry as possible to prevent coccidiosis. The easiest and best way to avoid this is for the chicks to be vaccinated (and they usually are). If not a feed with the vaccine can be fed to them.


WARNING. Combining the vaccine with vaccinated feed renders the chicks unprotected and can lead to death.
But with vaccination chicks are protected very well.

Bonus Tip: Soothing a Hard Trip

Instead of using the standard feed and water suggestions listed, try this: Put 6 tablespoons of sugar in each gallon of water. Then mix some of this extra sweet water with some of your feed to make a soupy mix. Give your birds this special feed and water mix for 3 to 4 days to get them over the effects of shipping.

Things to Note

Appointment Only

We can't wait to see you, but all pickups do require an appointment. Call or write to arrange your pickup.

Delivery Preparation

Before your chicks arrive make sure you are set up to receive them with all the supplies you might need. Read our help guides if you have any quesions.

Contact us with any Questions

We love to hear from our customers, please use our contact page to reach out to us.

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